

costume and jEWELLERY

Traditionally, there are many components to the kathak Costume for both the males and females. The costume can be divided into both Hindu and Moghul types. The Hindu style formerly being used at Rajasthan’s Hindu courts while the Moghul type was used in the Moghul context. The costume resembles those seen and worn in Mughal miniatures (Jeffrey Hays, 2008) Generally, both males and females wear tight- fitting trousers, ankle belles, full- gathered or pleated ghagra skirts with a choli for women and a long-sleeved jacket with a traditional topi hat for men. The full-length skirts that the women wear of the miniatures seem to be transparent, allowing for there to be a glimpse of the lower garments (Adarsha Dress Palace, 2016).
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Traditionally, females wear a saree in a tied-up style so that it is easier for them to move. There are also times where women wear lehenga-choli with the optional odhni which is a shawl-like scarf that is worn over the kurta and gharara or veil. The Kurta and gharara consist of a duparra and the wide-legged pants that flare dramatically from now. There are other dancers who adopt the Mughal costume which consists of an angarkha that tightly fits above the wiser and the skirt portion cuts on the round supplemented by the churidar on the legs. In all cases, the materials of the costumes are usually highly ornamented and valuable. The woman’s outfit also includes rich jewellery and the obligatory nose ring, which gained popularity during the Middle Age and can usually be found in bright colours such as orange, red and green.
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However, in modern times, there were several variations being made to the kathak costume. The woman’s Hindu-type costume consists of a sari-like long skirt and trousers and the Moghul-influenced veil. According to the practice of purdah and the Moghul court etiquette, the semi-transparent veil was and still is used by female dances. On the other hand, the men originally danced bare-chested, wearing a dhoti loincloth, wrapped to form a kind of loose trousers. The Moghul costume for women consists of churidar trousers, a long skirt and a blouse (Cultural India, 2021)
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When it comes to the jewellery of the kathak costume, it generally includes ornaments of both gold and silver for the head, hands, fingers, arms, feet, waist and small ankle bells also known as ghungroos. The range of jewellery helps in the concept of dancing many different complex patterns which are what makes kathak so different from other types on Indian dances. Though there isn’t a specific prop that is used in Kathak performances, they usually wear different types of jewellery that all play a part in bringing the costume together. Other than that, they use their hands, facial expressions and movement to bring across the story behind the performance.

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References
Adarsha Dress Palace. (2016). Buy/order kathak dance requirements and dance costumes.
http://www.adarshadresspalace.com/kathakdancerequirements.php
Hays, J. (2008). Kathak dance. http://factsanddetails.com/india/Arts_Culture_Media_Sports/sub7_5e/entry-4256.html
Cultural India. (N.A.) Kathak. https://www.culturalindia.net/indian-dance/classical/kathak.html
Content by: Eleanor
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